Dawn in the desert's equally as dramatic as dusk.
There's an expectancy.
That glow in the East quickly becomes a sunburst, then all bets are off, the early ambient temperature's nice, but within minutes anything exposed to the direct glare coming over the mountains, starts heating up… Quickly.
Very long, stark shadows, a photographer's dream, but not for long.
Nyati's parked under a huge camelthorn tree, deep in the desert, a few kilometres from Aus.
"Must be over an underground watercourse to support all this growth".
When we rolled out of the desert heat, into the shade, birds from a big old nesting colony did their best to chase Nyati away…
"Farting against thunder, guys", I thought, creeping in deeper.
Got the message though, & lit the mbaula well away… down wind.
We did each other no harm.
They actually warned of approaching baboons.
Desert days're long.
I've decided this is not my forte'.
It's hellova interesting, but not where I would choose to spend my last 12 or 15 years.
Give me sub-tropics, waterfalls, trees, navigable stretchs of water, preferably at sea-level with abundant, edible wildlife too please.
As a Christmas rush "bolt-hole" this deep desert's not going to work for me either…
Nyati's unaffected, except for the inverter, which doesn't like the high ambient temperatures, & keeps tripping out.
Designed to operate in an enviroment of between 0c & 40c, blistering hot 50c plus air straight off the desert sand, doesn't do it any good at all.
So I'm going to put the "Seychelles effect" into action, & follow my gut.
Years ago, S.Y. Enigma was about to leave Mother Africa & head East into the Indian Ocean.
We were undecided on which course to lay…
Straight out, due East… Seychelles.
Or…
Northeast, across the "Doldrums"… Maldives.
So many experienced sailors, especially from America & Australia, recommended we scrub around the Seychelles…
"Why" ?
"It's a crap place, a dictatorship"… "Definitely don't bother going there"…
"Totally authoritarian"…
So, we listened, evaluated, decided, & plotted our course…
1000miles, due East… Seychelles.
We were thrilled we did too.
Although we were intercepted & escorted onto our anchorage by a quite aggressive warship, bristling with deck guns, all trained on Enigma…
Mad Mike, & his "frothblowers" had recently caused a bit of a stir in Port Victoria, Mahe', & our South African flag was viewed with some suspicion…
The Seychelles turned out to be one of, if not, THE highlight of our entire voyage.
Hence… The "Seychelles effect".
Now Namibia's running with German overlanders…
Like fleas on a dog's back Man.
If you'll let them, like Americans, Germans LOVE to tell you what they think you should know about everything.
Luderitz's a port that's long fascinated me…
So isolated, remote & inhospitable.
Stories of diamonds, & the tough guys that went out there hunting them, fire my imagination.
So, we, the Gypsy & I, reckon Luderitz's a "must see" for Nyati.
Many, probably the majority of Germans I speak to, hold Luderitz in very low esteem.
"Nothing to zee, only ze fizh factory to ztink ze whole place out".
"Krime iz high".
"Don't go… Iz zhit… Vindy und kold".
"Oh yeah… Here we go again".
I see you are on the go again. Hope Canyon Road House was as enjoyable as it was for us.
Ai-Ais was also great for us with the exception of the baboons, they ran a mock in the mornings. Great scenery around that area. The wild horses in Aus are no longer wild as the get fed at the feeding station. We saw loads of gemsbok.
The camp site at Luderitz is a bit crappy and the wind just does not stop howling. It was so bad that we could not camp there had to check into a B&B. A must to visit is Kolmanskop.
Enjoy and travel safe.
Thanks Iona,
Ja I'm sure you'd enjoy most of this journey… It's not all a "bed of roses", but I'm trying to look for the good in every situation… Usually finding it too.
Look after yourself Girl… Enjoy the journey you're on, every day.