Last night with JP & Sharron was terrific.
Exactly what I needed to feel I was leaving the Cape happily.
That's the "send off" so many adventurers have had before leaving on their own personal African expedition.
Some with flags flying & trumpets blowing… Some without.
Nyati always just… leaves.
So it was from Melkbosstrand.
For a brief moment, that iconic view, the postcard view of table mountain from across the bay, filled the rear screen…
Burp burp… Fond fairwell.
The R27 led us past Koeberg, SA's aging nuclear power plant…who built that ?
Of course, the start of our nationwide "loadsheading" debacle was blamed on someone dropping a bolt in there…
What crap.
If Nyati starts glowing in the dark, you'll know why.
The road up to Paternoster's quite unremarkable…
Until…
OhmyGod…
I had to double take… Is this for real ?
A classic "clash of cultures".
It's where traditional "live off the sea", subsistence fisherfolk meet "holiday home", developers… Property tycoons.
As in nature, predators are followed by scavengers…
Estate agents & money lenders are everywhere.
Nyati was driving through a film set.
I don't have the skills to describe this place… Paternoster.
You'll have to come & see for yourself.
I hooked up with Dominic, a local, tattooed gangster, fixing his traps, who told me he was waiting for his grandma to sell the shack so many generations of crayfishermen had been born in…
"Ag Jaa… 6 Mil, no less ma bra".
Why do they curl their two middle fingers in as they speak, loose feet, always moving ?
Ja, just like that… I know you did too. 😉
Boats strewn about…
His crew were all drinking early today,
it wasn't lekker to go out this Friday… "Nay…It's the 13th bra".
Hats on backward…
Guzzling spookpiss & beer… Eish.
Dominic shared a beer, promised to keep me some crays on Sunday, the first day of the legal season, & directed me to Tieties bay, past the colombine light house, over the hill…
Nice graded gravel road…
The whole bay's a camp site…
Magnificent, raw, unspoilt coastal beauty.
The Atlantic ocean's there, in front of you as far as you can see…
There's a low pitched roaring as it works on the granite shoreline.
Nothing gentle here… Nothing cuddly.
Not a single tree either.
Don't fuck about, this is the real thing.
Awesome, very cold, straight out of the antarctic, & full of life…
I was somehow intimidated by such power, so many stories.
Nyati's feeling cold Atlantic spray today.
Tyres rolling over ancient shell beaches.
How long has this been here ?
How much longer has it got ?
This's not the right place to be alone, you almost feel the world turning, misty mornings, wonderful sunsets…
This should be shared.
An East coast boy watching the sun going down INTO the Western ocean… Odd.
It's a chilly breeze, laden with the subtle smell of kelp & salt that makes the fire crackle & brings me to wonder…
"Am I sitting on my own,
in the dark,
cold & lonely,
getting drunk,
wondering what's creeping up on me from this hard & unforgiving place" ?
OR
"Am I sitting happily,
wrapped in a blanket,
sipping wine,
watching stars fall out of the sky,
listening to the sounds of the night,
cradled in the busom of Mother Africa" ?
Paternoster was lovely quiet spot until the developers moved in. Have a beer at Paternoster Hotel in the “Panty Bar”. Further up at Lambert’s Bay visit Muisbosskerm for an on the beach eating experience of a few hours, real LEKKER man.
Enjoy your trip.
Yes, it's a free for all now. Curio shops, estate agents, beggars all cheek by jowl.
A single crayfish sells for R80.00 today.
All the way up the coast, way past St.Helena, the beach front land has been walled off, private estate roads & infrastructure built, in anticipation.
Just love reading your stories! Not “out of the mouth of babes” but “out of the mouth of Paul”!!!! Entertainment at its best……keep on trucking – and writing!
Thanks Sharron, I will.
Howzit again. What’s dis shit “am I sitting” .Kak man it is definitely “or” with a “wh” in front and an “e” at the back. Positive thinking and just “Kyk noord en fok voort my maat”. Gotcha. Alan
Yup… Of course.
Those're simply some thoughts for anyone to draw there own conclusions on. 😉
Welcome to the Atlantic! I hope you packed a wetsuit. Funnily, we are heading over to the Indian ocean (India) in a few weeks time.
Love that photo from your “front door”.
Enjoy the crallies!
Wow… India, great, I'm envious.
Do keep us all posted & enjoy.
Wet suit ? This water's only 10c… At the most…
I wear a wetsuit in the Indian Ocean at 25c.
Remember the Seychelles… 40c on the surface… We used to dive into a thermohaline to cool off.
Ah, India… Wonderful. Well done, I know you've been thinking about going.
Wow! Picture postcard! Love that picture from your windows, what a vista to wake up to. Lovelying to see you met up with JP and Sharon the other day, always a tonic laughing with old friends xx
It's a hellova place Georgie…
You would love it.
Very "Mediterranean" feel to the houses built up the granite slopes.
Hi
Hope you are well. Please give us a call on 0835565153.
Would love to know how things are going.
Hi P & J,
Thanks for your concern & great help yesterday.
All's well now, after getting a very bad reception at the mine, I eventually made it back to the salt pan & hired a BIG John Deere.
We finally freed Nyati as darkness fell.
This was a serious physical & mental challenge for me, so, thanks again for your lift, juice, apple & support.
I hope you enjoy the last leg of your monumental trip & enjoy the luxury of being HOME.
Hi Paul. Just pepped in to see where u r graveling. I soooo loooove to read ur most interesting story as u go. WOW man wish i could do a WOW travel like u r doing right now. It must be sooooo AWSOME. So glad u r well and Nyati is keeping well too. I peep in so now and then to see what the two of u guys r up to. Just loove ur stories. Better than any book i have read. Keep up all the good and interesting travels. Keep well and give Nyati a biiiig hug from me. All the best. Me the gypsey girl.
Very lekker to hear you're still reading the blog… I LOVE your enthusiasm B-).
Nyati sends you a big oily kiss…
I can't tell you what the Gypsy sends. :$
Please keep reading, I'll keep writing.