Mountain hide away.

I'd noticed "Di bus stop" on the road to Clarens… A bright red bus, advertising art, adventuring, food, camping & everything in between. 

They had a small campsite, high up in the mountains next to a dam, with a rudimentary stone hut that hunters sometimes used… Empty now… Perfect.

The dam water level was very low, testament to the long dry season they've had this year.  Which also meant that it's one of the few watering holes in the area… Next morning, after being visited by the local farmer with a packet of magnificent, home made, red  hartbeeste boerewors… "He'd seen me braaing the night before"… (Oh, so I AM being watched… But what GREAT Free State hospitality  ! )… in the hour between 8.00 & 9.00, the water was visited by baboons, geese, guinea fowl, francolin, horses, eland, a pigeon was taken by a hawk less than 3 meters from me & a pair of coots calmly added to their nest the whole time… So lekker I decided to stay another night… I had plenty to braai, so,  why not?

Jewel.

"Hey Boet, you up for a flash" ?

"WHAT" ?

A BIG black dude, dressed in shiny black leathers, astride a monstrous black harley.  A leather covered, German 2nd world war helmet with horns attached, perched on the back of his head.

"WILL   YOU   TAKE   A   FO TO GRAF  OF  ME   N   DIS   SICK   TRUCK "  ?

Slower & louder…
"Fuck me, how times've changed", I thought… "Sure", I said.

He handed me something the size of my old school slate, &, pointing to a huge flashing icon, said… "CAM ER A". Parking the harley beside Nyati, he smiled a perfect pouting smile at me. I took the pic, possibly with a finger obscuring the lens,  handed the chalk board back, & he thundered off without another word.

Nyati was parked in the main square of Clarens,  the "jewel" of the Orange Free State.  A peaceful & beautiful tourist trap of a place. Like Pilgrims Rest, formally a working town, now a cute kind of theme park, crammed with "must have" objects de art & running with weird characters like the floppy horned,  bike riding Darth Vader. Thank God I was alone. A "shopper" would need a week, at least.

After visiting the knife making shop, something every visitor to Clarens  should do, & downing a savoury pancake, I bought a hat & left, heading back into the mountains looking for somewhere spectacular to stop for a few days.

www.rv-nyati.com

Dark Nights

I’ve said it before, but now it can be put into writing… Whoever invented the headlamp needs a medal. It was probably an underage Welsh boy, carrying a canary in a cage, or a filthy tin miner in Devon clutching his lunch by the rolled up crust… Whoever it was… Hats off to you.

How could we have managed braaing in the bush on a moonless night without one?

The Golden gate.

For all its wild appearance, & in your face nature, there’s actually nothing natural about Sterkfontein dam. It’s a beautiful, gigantic man-made bathtub. A massive reservoir of water, pumped in & out as required to produce hydro-electric power… Eish, bloody clever, these umlungus. However, the pass up & into the heart of the Free State beckoned… The Golden gate… Nothing man-made here, except for the ribbon of tar dissappearing into towering sandstone heights. Driving through the mountains is a very humbling experience. The well maintained road twists & turns through hundreds of millions of years of history. At times like this I envy the geologists, & wish I could read the ancient stories told in the huge, multi-coloured striations standing out like mountainous billboards. There’s a rest camp towards the Clarens end of the reserve, its nestled in the bottom of a canyon, all shiny & squeaky clean… Paved roads, perfectly symmetrical camping sites with trimmed edges… Mmmmm, nothing wild here. Not so lekker for Nyati, but, for tonight, it’s home. The receptionist asked what my residential address was, I told her, “NU 11399”. Hee hee, I love it.

Moving on

Nyati & I bade farewell to Midmar dam & it’s very accommodating camp sites, & headed for the OFS. It had been a great place for the first stopover. Close enough to home for disbelieving friends to drive up to, to make sure I was REALLY going. Can you believe it ? :-).

No more N Roads if it can be helped… back roads from now on.

Immediately, I recognised the forgotten beauty of the Nottingham Rd, Mooi River & Estcourt farmlands all along the old R103. How had I forgotten so quickly ? Our new, but soulless tollroads have put another, unforseen price onto fast road travel… WOW… I remember now, slow down, if you can, take the old routes…meander… We live in a very special place.
At one time I thought perhaps I was on the wrong Road, then I remembered… there isn’t one. 😉

Through Winterton & Bergville & onto the daunting Oliviershoek pass. Nyati’s most daunting hurdle so far. Water temperature up into the 90’s, slowly, very slowly we crested the mountains & were rewarded with breathtaking views all across Natal. This’s a sight no one can ever forget. I can’t get enough of it…from sitting in a berg cave, or in Nyati’s warm & comfortable embrace… Soul food.

No, before you ask, I couldn’t see your house from there!!

Finally, onto Sterkfontein nature reserve, similar to Midmar, but very much wilder. Nyati’s 4wheel drive capabilities took us to an otherwise inaccessible spot in the wilderness where the truck was surrounded by all sorts of edibles… Tempting, but the fridge’s still well stocked. :-S

Hey, hey…altitude + sunset = bloody cold. The moment the sun went in, so did I.

Life’s new chapter.

08.30 Friday, 14th of August 2015… Nyati set sail headed due East. Oh, the emotions… The memories of taking S.Y. Enigma out of the safety of Durban harbour, all came flooding back…Exciting, terrifying… hoisting the genoa, the mainsail… Feeling the boat settling into the swell… Mmmm, then the moment I switched off the diesel engine & we were one with the sea… Unforgettable. But this wasn’t Enigma, designed & built for the deep blue ocean… This is Nyati, just as tough & ready for Mother Africa.

This time there was no family standing by my side, all wide eyed & wondering what the hell we were doing, but doing it anyway… Starting a new chapter in our lives. Driving away from Kloof, my mind was filled with confusing thoughts not least of all… “what the hell am I doing this time ?”… Conclusion… “I don’t know, but I’m doing it anyway”

The first stop was “industrial chainsaw” in PMB to fit a new blade & chain to the Husquvarna. If ever proof was needed that size really does matter, try fitting a piddling 450mm blade onto the mighty SP694 husky. Eish, talk about a rat on a pumpkin or a dehorned rhino. My faithful old 694 is a ferocious beast of a machine that used to work nonstop 8hrs a day for months on end cutting huge gum trees into manageable 300x50x6m long roofing timbers. Now fitted for cutting firewood or obstacles blocking Nyati’s “off the beaten track” progress. It looks unbalanced, but, oh how wonderful to hear that familiar 2 stroke growl again.

Nyati drove up to ‘Maritzberg easily & then onwards & upwards. Climbing town hill took considerably longer than when I was driving the “silky”. Ah, my wonderful SLK… Now gone to pastures new. May they treat you with the respect you deserve, my trusty old cowcatcher.

So, here we are, Nyati & I, parked on the leeward shore of Midmar dam. It’s much higher than Kloof & there’s a chilly wind picking up, changing the very pleasant experience of sitting out, under the stars, what to do?

It makes me think of Confucius who reportedly said, “Life is really simple, but we insist on making it complicated”. So I’m going to chuck another log on the fire & sit closer. Here begins a new chapter in life.

Signage

Here’s the “new look”, pimped up Nyati. Carrying the STS logo, Nyati’s own logo, Nyati’s blog address & a pic of a couple of happy, healthy rhino (as we want to see them all) Hopefully this will raise awareness of STS, & generate much needed cash donations to this great cause. www.rv-nyati.com

Delays.

Inevitable, I suppose, something was bound to derail Nyati’s march towards final departure. It was all going so smoothly… Slowly, but smoothly, The news that my bookkeeping wasn’t up to date came as no surprise, but, oh God, how can ANYTHING take THIS long to sort out ?

So Nyati’s been hung up here, parked in the “cottage” driveway, for the past couple of months. Gathering dust? Maybe, but living on board has given me the opportunity to get all sorts of bits & pieces done. Again with the help of some friends.

Alan brought around a bloody great big manually operated recovery winch that can be hung off the front or back, as needed.

Carolyn put together a terrific tent-like mozzie net… Very, very cool.

Calvin produced some beautiful signage to promote awareness of Saving the Survivors. The DSTV installation was eventually sorted out. A complete inventory of spares & equipment like a lightweight aluminium trolley & telescopic ladder was bought & stowed away.

How the hell did I imagine Nyati was ready to roll without all this stuff? Not to mention loading the bicycle, chucking out the drinking water tank gauges & replacing them with a basic, can’t go wrong, dipstick system. Buying a great Nikon & on & on & on. Come on you bloody accountants, get on with it… Nyati needs to roll…

Soon, before it bursts at the seams.

Fund raising U turn

From the moment I learned about *Medicin Sans Frontiers* (Doctors without Borders) I’ve admired the organisation. They’re big, international and fearless. They do SO much good for humankind all around the world. Surely a good cause that Nyati could assist. But… Nyati’s an AFRICAN odyssey, running on pure energy, passion, and *joie de vivre.* Everywhere you look, our African wildlife is spiraling into extinction, pushed along by a mixture of obscene international greed and local, poverty stricken, ignorant people who, born without a shred of compassion, would hack the teeth out of their grandchildren for a pair of used red Reeboks. It’s mayhem out there. So… who’s going to stand up for our wildlife? Drs. Johan Marais, Gerhard Steenkamp, their assistants and sponsors, that’s who! They’re local vets who’ve been at the forefront of the effort to fight the effects of this slaughter through their organisation Saving the Survivors for years now. Take a look at their website, you’ll see. ( http://savingthesurvivors.co.za) *Au revoir* MSF you are an awesome organisation … but I’m more passionate about Saving the Survivors… This is an African fight. It’s immediate, it’s here, and it’s NOW. Lets get to it. Spread the word… better still, if you can, donate MONEY!!!

Umbilical cord cut.

As the Bahrs twins used to declare smilingly from advertising boards all over the country, “Oh Man, Life is great”… So true. Nyati finally drove away from the safety net of Bellevue Rd., home & support base for all these years on Friday 17th April 2015. The mission, to spend time in the great outdoors without any logistical support whatsoever, with the intention of testing all the on-board systems, before returning to “civilisation” to undertake any tweaking that might be necessary. Here, in our magnificent KwaZulu-Natal, one need not travel far to find a wilderness paradise… Less than a half hour’s drive (even at Nyati’s fully loaded pace) is the pristine nature haven of the Shongweni dam… PERFECT. It surely can’t get much better than this… Idyllic setting amongst the trees, perfectly protected from the elements by towering cliffs with kilometres of calm, clean water. The wildlife, zebra, impala, guinea fowl, Egyptian Geese & of course… Those bloody vervets, just kept coming… What a way to start !!! I always intended to keep my glass full, but this is perhaps over filling it. 😀 Nyati performed brilliantly. Barring a few minor glitches such as the water pressure pump running on because it had sucked air into the system… Nothing to worry about. Oh Man, Life IS great !!!

Licensed

So here they are… Operator card & licence disc. 😀 Nyati’s now 100% legal, licensed, insured & ready to roll. Just a few personal details to iron out… This’s getting exciting now. 😀